I’ve been posting this all over Facebook, now it’s the blog’s turn. Here’s the label which I’m not familiar with at all. So I might just take a weekend to go to Berlin and to see the clothes in person. So for now, someone help me! All I got to know from their website is that they (?) have participated in the Hyères festival in 2003, have had a few exhibitions in Germany, Austria and Denmark, they are published in the Young European Fashion Designers book, which I might need to buy for some more useful info. You might have guessed by now – it’s Boessert/Schorn I’m after.
They’ve got a crazy list of stockists in Asia, and a rather pathetic one in Europe. Why does this always happen to the young European brands that they are big in Japan and barely known over here? So in Berlin they are on at Temporary Showroom and Konk, in Düsseldorf at Ela, Doshaburi in Barcelona and the Henrik Vibskov Store in Copenhagen.
They make some very delicious jersey pieces with loads of volume, fringing, slashing, braiding and plissé. Sometimes there’s no obvious shape or structure, just a lot of draping volume that wraps around the body, Harem pants is a typical feature, so are the batwing tops.
Their spring/summer collection starts off in monochrome with a touch of colour and movement through pleated jersey, and bursts into juicy colours.

Last winter seems to be much more urban and ethnically inspired at the same time. There are loads of fringes and pull-strings that adjust the fit of the garment to respond to the wearer’s needs.

Last year’s spring/summer is incredibly fragile and delicate. The airy shapes and cool pastels are complemented by gorgeous knits with checker structure. I absolutely love how the graphic pattern of the knits gets vividly translated into an organic form and the loosely draped silhouette with uneven colouring becomes a beautiful juxtaposition to the texture.

The further back we go, the more shredding and slashing techniques we discover. Yet the very early work is set way off the prêt-a-porter train. There are incredible experiments with colouring, for the winter 04/05 collection they used the sun-bleaching for black fabrics that were left out on the roof of the house during the summer. The objects that were fixed to the garments help the fabric retain the colour, but the exposed parts have faded away into all shades of fake black. We catch a glimpse of bottle green, midnight blue, moss green, tar grey, yet all this is sun’s work!

You shall hear about this wonderous brand again, as I am absolutely overwhelmed by their work. And, yes, I want to get my hands on the real-life clothes as soon as possible.


Post a Comment