A Russian Werewolf in Paris pt.1: Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2011

“A flower in a concrete garden” to quote Hooverphonic, not that the music much applies, but surely the theme does. When the show happens so fast it’s hard to catch the details, but some kind of fresh aftertaste still remains. Yes, that’s all about the Spring/Summer 2011 Dries Van Noten show I have been lucky to see. Moreover, bagging the front-row seats at a raw and rough location which has suddenly been engulfed by the holographic breezy tones as a first model stepped on the catwalk. The first oversized jacket and I was sold – the beauty of it is walking on the thin line between the clownesque and sublime. Pastel gradient dye on the summer coat belted up with a skinny holographic belt. A return of a shirt-o-skirt – that’s the skirt with sleeves, in the lightest pastel blue cotton. Bleached prints, pink sequins and yet another oversized blazer – all in the tastiest candy-colours.
Strangely, not many accessories or embroidery – the collection looked stripped down to the basics and bleached to the lightest shade imaginable. And if previously the summer seasons would have been loaded with colour, the spring/summer 2011 has been soaked in a pot of bleach prior to the catwalk show. I love when Dries works clean and minimal, because the end-result is never too clean – his cottons, the fly-away silks and rough bleached denim will always look non-chalant and messy, in a good sense of the word.
I love it when a clean wearable collection makes an impact, not necessarily being his strongest work, but surely enchanting. And may be it’s just me who’s sold on the first silhouette, but that massive blazer will make its way into my wardrobe come spring – making a personal order via the boutique where I work, and already can’t wait!


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