Post-fashion week contemplations

I still can’t give into the recession, even when it is the main theme of every fashion show and the analysis guideline for every fashion critic. It seems to be too talked about that soon it will become démodé. And what is it that the fashion critics and journalist are going adhere the current collections to when the recession hype dies out like the Halle-Villvoorde issue? So rarely they mention the space travel theme, the war-time elegance, overly tactileness, the new squid-silhouette (ok, I’ve just invented this one, but wait and see - it’s true), and why no one points out that every coat on every god damn catwalk has exactly the same sleeve shape. They do talk about the end of the 80’s as the period reference, but only because the economy state is comparable, and when the fabrics get heavier, coats longer and hair-do’s more retro, then they compare with the WWII. For squid’s sake! When will it end?
So I figured I’ll make my own fall/winter round up, with many different and fabulous words, and no more ‘recession’.

Tactile and beige.
…and this has nothing to do with COS (the dedicated ones will understand). May be it’s the general influence of the shredded t’s that fill the blogosphere brimful, maybe it’s the post fringe-embellishment (that has been going on for a couple of seasons now) texture. The tactileness is playing with transparencies in autumn in all shades of nude, powder, beige and other neutral tones.

The squid.
Like the chapter from ‘The Sphere’, the squid is what comes to mind when I see this shape that so many designers have worked with for autumn. Longer or shorter, voluminous or body-con, but this is what you get when the shoulder-line is receded, the hems are fanned out, and only the top button is functional. Very 17th century too, only that here we see it with almost technological finishings. Check Bruno Pieters, Gareth Pugh, Undercover, Comme des Garçons.

The banana sleeve.
The jacket could be any shape, but the sleeves are identical! A frightening thought.


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