The playlist got a small update! Just as usual the 10 tracks of nowadays are up for your judgement. Merry clicking>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
c'est bon!
A note for the style-hungry, yes yes, and I'm messing with the copyright again. These (referring to the images bellow) are the pages from Bon about the autumn/winter 2009 collections from the Swedish labels such as Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Acne, Whyred, Diana Orving, Carin Wester, Hope, The Local Firm. Basically almost all you need to know about Swedish fashion served to you on 16 pages (that is if you read Swedish)...and if you don't, then there's a slightly different layout, but one and the same article in the Bon International. Also look out for the fashion story shot by Daniel Sannwald!
25 March 2009
This weekend I’ll be going to Cologne and will try to make it to Dusseldorf (that's to get a fix of Muji candles and to drop by Ela, naturally). So for those who missed the little guide to Cologne I made a while ago, I’ll try to have a new updated version ready and freshly served to you, otherwise you can dig it out of the archives - all my doodles are neatly sorted and classified there.
Though the main point of the trip is not entirely clear to me, I’m going for some change of situation, because the work is getting more and more stressful and somehow pointless, and I’m in a desperate need of inspiration. I’m hoping to be inspired to continue and not to get overwhelmed by all the ideas and quit COS. Quitting would be the most inadequate thing to do, but that’s in my head, and it’s been there for quite a while now. Yet again I’m pondering on about something very vague…fatigue, demotivation, melancholy…
Alright, time to give up on the dear-diary thing, and search for some tasty images for a short but inspirational post.
Though the main point of the trip is not entirely clear to me, I’m going for some change of situation, because the work is getting more and more stressful and somehow pointless, and I’m in a desperate need of inspiration. I’m hoping to be inspired to continue and not to get overwhelmed by all the ideas and quit COS. Quitting would be the most inadequate thing to do, but that’s in my head, and it’s been there for quite a while now. Yet again I’m pondering on about something very vague…fatigue, demotivation, melancholy…
Alright, time to give up on the dear-diary thing, and search for some tasty images for a short but inspirational post.
23 March 2009
Boessert/Schorn
I’ve been posting this all over Facebook, now it’s the blog’s turn. Here’s the label which I’m not familiar with at all. So I might just take a weekend to go to Berlin and to see the clothes in person. So for now, someone help me! All I got to know from their website is that they (?) have participated in the Hyères festival in 2003, have had a few exhibitions in Germany, Austria and Denmark, they are published in the Young European Fashion Designers book, which I might need to buy for some more useful info. You might have guessed by now – it’s Boessert/Schorn I’m after.
They’ve got a crazy list of stockists in Asia, and a rather pathetic one in Europe. Why does this always happen to the young European brands that they are big in Japan and barely known over here? So in Berlin they are on at Temporary Showroom and Konk, in Düsseldorf at Ela, Doshaburi in Barcelona and the Henrik Vibskov Store in Copenhagen.
They make some very delicious jersey pieces with loads of volume, fringing, slashing, braiding and plissé. Sometimes there’s no obvious shape or structure, just a lot of draping volume that wraps around the body, Harem pants is a typical feature, so are the batwing tops.
Their spring/summer collection starts off in monochrome with a touch of colour and movement through pleated jersey, and bursts into juicy colours.
Last winter seems to be much more urban and ethnically inspired at the same time. There are loads of fringes and pull-strings that adjust the fit of the garment to respond to the wearer’s needs.
Last year’s spring/summer is incredibly fragile and delicate. The airy shapes and cool pastels are complemented by gorgeous knits with checker structure. I absolutely love how the graphic pattern of the knits gets vividly translated into an organic form and the loosely draped silhouette with uneven colouring becomes a beautiful juxtaposition to the texture.
The further back we go, the more shredding and slashing techniques we discover. Yet the very early work is set way off the prêt-a-porter train. There are incredible experiments with colouring, for the winter 04/05 collection they used the sun-bleaching for black fabrics that were left out on the roof of the house during the summer. The objects that were fixed to the garments help the fabric retain the colour, but the exposed parts have faded away into all shades of fake black. We catch a glimpse of bottle green, midnight blue, moss green, tar grey, yet all this is sun’s work!
You shall hear about this wonderous brand again, as I am absolutely overwhelmed by their work. And, yes, I want to get my hands on the real-life clothes as soon as possible.
They’ve got a crazy list of stockists in Asia, and a rather pathetic one in Europe. Why does this always happen to the young European brands that they are big in Japan and barely known over here? So in Berlin they are on at Temporary Showroom and Konk, in Düsseldorf at Ela, Doshaburi in Barcelona and the Henrik Vibskov Store in Copenhagen.
They make some very delicious jersey pieces with loads of volume, fringing, slashing, braiding and plissé. Sometimes there’s no obvious shape or structure, just a lot of draping volume that wraps around the body, Harem pants is a typical feature, so are the batwing tops.
Their spring/summer collection starts off in monochrome with a touch of colour and movement through pleated jersey, and bursts into juicy colours.
Last winter seems to be much more urban and ethnically inspired at the same time. There are loads of fringes and pull-strings that adjust the fit of the garment to respond to the wearer’s needs.
Last year’s spring/summer is incredibly fragile and delicate. The airy shapes and cool pastels are complemented by gorgeous knits with checker structure. I absolutely love how the graphic pattern of the knits gets vividly translated into an organic form and the loosely draped silhouette with uneven colouring becomes a beautiful juxtaposition to the texture.
The further back we go, the more shredding and slashing techniques we discover. Yet the very early work is set way off the prêt-a-porter train. There are incredible experiments with colouring, for the winter 04/05 collection they used the sun-bleaching for black fabrics that were left out on the roof of the house during the summer. The objects that were fixed to the garments help the fabric retain the colour, but the exposed parts have faded away into all shades of fake black. We catch a glimpse of bottle green, midnight blue, moss green, tar grey, yet all this is sun’s work!
You shall hear about this wonderous brand again, as I am absolutely overwhelmed by their work. And, yes, I want to get my hands on the real-life clothes as soon as possible.
22 March 2009
The discovery
Today I feel like I’ve read every single existing blog in this universe and beyond. It’s not so bad actually since it leads to quite a few important discoveries. One of such discoveries is this: Doshaburi – an on-line store. It did take me a couple of hours to go through every brand and garment and mentally classify it as, own, want to own, heard about, just discovered and want to sell in ‘origami…’ boutique if it were open now. So thought I’d publish the list.
Own:
Bernhard Willhelm, several pieces, used to call him my favourite and leave flat out broke from every stocksale. Still hunt for his stuff on eBay.
Peter Jensen, one sweater dress.
Pelican Avenue, a dress/THE print
Veronique Branquinho, keep one beautiful dress, the rest went up on eBay
Melissa, the classic
Swear, the oldest object in my wardrobe, the best quality shoes after Dries Van Noten
Want to and heard about:
Marjan Pejoski:
BLESS:
Cosmic Wonder Light Source:
Ann Sofie Back:
A’N’D:
Fabrics Interseason:
Velour:
Swash:
Heard about:
KTZ,
Jeremy Scott, Eley Kishimoto, Petar Petrov, Zucca, C-Neeon,
Odeur,
Cheap Monday, Linda Farrow, SixScents.
Discovered:
Boessert/Schorn:
Ute Ploier:
Awareness&Consciousness:
SWD/Skyward:
Kling, Reality Studio, Horace
Daniel Palillo:
Poti Poti:
Nanushka:
Callioppe:
Migh-T:
Isaacymanu:
Gemma Degara:
As you might see there would be many true gems among all the tactile and sculpted pieces on the rails. My love for everything unintentionally timeless lets me always choose for awkward shapes and cuts, often oversized silhouettes, mighty prints that take over the entire garment and witty accessories. When I say ‘unintentionally timeless’ I mean the kind of design that is not made timeless in the classical tailoring sense, on the contrary it is controversial because it challenges the habitual shapes of clothing and somewhat distorts human proportions. This style never goes out of fashion because it has never been IN fashion, always remaining on the avant-garde side, as well as it demands a certain attitude from the wearer. You’ve got to be confident, demanding, very open or have an extreme tunnel vision – only in this way you can admire and understand the design, because most of it is walking on a thin line between consumerist and conceptual. Take Fabrics Interseason (the label has been recently celebrating 10th birthday, by the way) for example. An Austrian duo – Wally Salner and Johannes Schweigner are not your mere fashion designers. Their work ranges from fashion and design in general, contemporary fine arts, cultural history, performance to electronic music. In accordance with their artistic method, the projects, performances and the collections and presentation are based upon concepts which are developed from an intensive research of socio-political discourses and phenomena. Their collections do not only function as the analysis of codes which manifest themselves in individual and collective clothing pattern, but because of their ability to be worn, they also infiltrate an exclusive and highly individual lifestyle by deliberately proclaiming a critical or political stance. They present their collections twice a year during Paris fashion week and with their installation work continually take part in international art exhibitions.
As I observe their work alongside with the work of many others I imagine a kind of base for such approach to fashion – a space so volatile and ephemeral, which has a capacity to be continuously altered by the presence of an artist, musician or a mere customer to always become new and different, to be unique enough to make a statement and at the same time be commercial and simply act as a retail point for young and upcoming talent. Imagine the aforementioned selection of brands and designers, throw in Christian Wijnants patterned pieces, Sandrina Fasoli’s feminine and delicate silks, Iefke de Roos’ handmade garments, FYI jewellery and bags, stock some sweet silliness like in Mieke Willens’ shop, display it all on vintage Scandinavian furniture, invite a DJ or a band…well, you’d pretty much get….yes, .origami mon ami!
EDIT: I made images a bit smaller - it was a very long and annoying post to start with. Please, use it as a link reference. There's a plenty of great things to discover!
Own:
Bernhard Willhelm, several pieces, used to call him my favourite and leave flat out broke from every stocksale. Still hunt for his stuff on eBay.
Peter Jensen, one sweater dress.
Pelican Avenue, a dress/THE print
Veronique Branquinho, keep one beautiful dress, the rest went up on eBay
Melissa, the classic
Swear, the oldest object in my wardrobe, the best quality shoes after Dries Van Noten
Want to and heard about:
Marjan Pejoski:
BLESS:
Cosmic Wonder Light Source:
Ann Sofie Back:
A’N’D:
Fabrics Interseason:
Velour:
Swash:
Heard about:
KTZ,
Jeremy Scott, Eley Kishimoto, Petar Petrov, Zucca, C-Neeon,
Odeur,
Cheap Monday, Linda Farrow, SixScents.
Discovered:
Boessert/Schorn:
Ute Ploier:
Awareness&Consciousness:
SWD/Skyward:
Kling, Reality Studio, Horace
Daniel Palillo:
Poti Poti:
Nanushka:
Callioppe:
Migh-T:
Isaacymanu:
Gemma Degara:
As you might see there would be many true gems among all the tactile and sculpted pieces on the rails. My love for everything unintentionally timeless lets me always choose for awkward shapes and cuts, often oversized silhouettes, mighty prints that take over the entire garment and witty accessories. When I say ‘unintentionally timeless’ I mean the kind of design that is not made timeless in the classical tailoring sense, on the contrary it is controversial because it challenges the habitual shapes of clothing and somewhat distorts human proportions. This style never goes out of fashion because it has never been IN fashion, always remaining on the avant-garde side, as well as it demands a certain attitude from the wearer. You’ve got to be confident, demanding, very open or have an extreme tunnel vision – only in this way you can admire and understand the design, because most of it is walking on a thin line between consumerist and conceptual. Take Fabrics Interseason (the label has been recently celebrating 10th birthday, by the way) for example. An Austrian duo – Wally Salner and Johannes Schweigner are not your mere fashion designers. Their work ranges from fashion and design in general, contemporary fine arts, cultural history, performance to electronic music. In accordance with their artistic method, the projects, performances and the collections and presentation are based upon concepts which are developed from an intensive research of socio-political discourses and phenomena. Their collections do not only function as the analysis of codes which manifest themselves in individual and collective clothing pattern, but because of their ability to be worn, they also infiltrate an exclusive and highly individual lifestyle by deliberately proclaiming a critical or political stance. They present their collections twice a year during Paris fashion week and with their installation work continually take part in international art exhibitions.
As I observe their work alongside with the work of many others I imagine a kind of base for such approach to fashion – a space so volatile and ephemeral, which has a capacity to be continuously altered by the presence of an artist, musician or a mere customer to always become new and different, to be unique enough to make a statement and at the same time be commercial and simply act as a retail point for young and upcoming talent. Imagine the aforementioned selection of brands and designers, throw in Christian Wijnants patterned pieces, Sandrina Fasoli’s feminine and delicate silks, Iefke de Roos’ handmade garments, FYI jewellery and bags, stock some sweet silliness like in Mieke Willens’ shop, display it all on vintage Scandinavian furniture, invite a DJ or a band…well, you’d pretty much get….yes, .origami mon ami!
EDIT: I made images a bit smaller - it was a very long and annoying post to start with. Please, use it as a link reference. There's a plenty of great things to discover!
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